Gasket Repair Instructions

Materials Needed

Caution:  New drysuit gaskets may not be comfortable initially but will stretch over time. We recommend stretching new gaskets around something slightly larger than the gasket opening overnight. Trimming the gaskets is not recommended and may cause gasket failure.

Safety First:  Always work in a well-ventilated area.  Latex gloves, eye protection, and a respirator are highly recommended.

If the existing gasket is in good condition, the new gasket can be adhered to the existing gasket. Make sure you leave approximately 1” of old gasket material above the material of the drytop/suit. This will leave plenty of the existing latex to adhere the new gasket to.

Note: Do not cut into the actual material of the drytop/suit; only the latex should be cut.

Completely remove the gasket if it’s dry and cracking or is not completely attached to the drytop/suit. Using a hair dryer to apply heat to the old gasket will weaken the adhesive allowing the gasket to be peeled off. You do not need to clean off the old glue; the new glue layer can be applied over the old.

Step 2: INSERT A FORM INTO THE DRYTOP/SUIT

Forms can be coffee cans, pots, or plastic containers. A form can also be made by cutting Minicell foam to the size and shape you need. Before inserting the form, cover it with wax paper or glossy tape (strapping tape) to prevent the Aquaseal from sticking to the form. The form should fit tightly inside. In the event that a tight fit is hard to achieve, increase the diameter of the form using glossy tape or use a different form.

Note: We do not recommend using cone-shaped forms because they can cause the gasket to slide during the repair.

Step 3: POSITION THE DRYTOP/SUIT

The drytop/suit should be positioned so that 1” – 2” of the form is exposed above the edge of the gasket material.

Step 4: STRETCH THE NEW GASKET OVER THE FORM

The new gasket should be stretched over the form and pulled down far enough to completely overlap the old gasket, or to where the old gasket used to be. Place a rubber band over the gasket about half way down the form.

Note: Leave the rubber band in place until the gasket repair is completed.

Step 5: FOLD THE NEW GASKET OVER ITSELF

Fold the new gasket over itself enough to expose the suits’ gasket underneath.

Step 6: BUFF BOTH SURFACES

Buff all surfaces to be glued with 150 or 180 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Rough up the area to be glued until the latex loses its shine. Clean with Cotol or denatured alcohol using a clean lint-free rag.

Note: Many new gaskets now come with a shiny polyurethane strip. This strip does not need to be buffed. Simply clean the strip lightly with Cotol or denatured alcohol and continue with the repair.

Step 7: APPLY A THIN LAYER OF AQUASEAL

Apply a thin layer of Aquaseal to the old and new gasket material where they were contacting each other when rolled over. Applicators can be butter knives, plastic knives, Popsicle sticks, etc. We use ½” chip brushes in the repair shop.

Step 8: FOLD THE NEW GASKET DOWN

Slowly fold the new gasket down on to the old gasket. Apply pressure with a Roller Rasp, or a Pro Roller, around the gasket to remove any air bubbles. Roll from the middle and work towards the outer edges.

Step 9: MONITOR YOUR REPAIR

For the first hour check the repair occasionally to make sure the gasket does not slip and that no wrinkles or air pockets develop. Slipping can occur when our form is too big or too small, so pay close attention to how the gasket is sitting during the curing process.

Note: The optimal climate for repairs is above 60 degrees F and below 50% humidity. Allow 24 hours for curing time in optimal conditions. Drying time may vary with climate conditions.

Cotol can be mixed with Aquaseal to decrease drying time. Mix the Aquaseal with Cotol (three parts Aquaseal to one part Cotol) in a mixing cup.

Step 10: "Seam-Line" (optional)

One way to ensure your gasket repair will stay for a longer period of time is to add a “seam-line” about ¼ to ½ inch wide that will span the gap between the edge of the new gasket and the cloth of your dry suit. Edges are the enemy when it comes to glue. No matter how careful your preparation, you will always be fighting off a pealing edge. We recommend going through the same steps of mechanical prep (sandpaper), chemical cleaning (alcohol), and an additional step of taping off the “seam-line” area.

Mechanically prep the lowest 1/4" to 1/2" of your new gasket where it meets the drysuit. Going over will not be a big deal, and being neat is not necessary during this step. After you have made the material roughed up, use some denatured alcohol or Cotol to clean up this area. These steps are very much the same as prepping the old gasket.

The additional step of taping off your area will help ensure the end product looks nice and clean, not entirely necessary, but it does add a nice touch. Making sure you stay a consistent 1/4" above the seam between the new gasket and the drysuit wrap some masking tape all the way around the neck gasket. Repeat this procedure 1/4' below the seam on the cloth side of your Drysuit. When you are done you will have a nice 1/4 to 1/2 inch piece of drysuit showing through the tape that shows the seam of the new gasket with the drysuit. Coat this seam with glue, immediately remove the tape (it can be very difficult/impossible to remove after the glue has dried) and wait 24 hours.

There is also a seam on the inside of the gasket; you can repeat this procedure by turning that portion of the drysuit inside out, and starting all over. This step is not necessary but it will help your repair last a lot longer.

Gaskets are made of latex rubber which is highly susceptible to drying out over time.  Regular treatments with 303 Protectant can greatly increase the life of your gaskets. We recommend coating your gaskets every 4-6 weeks when not in use and every time you get off the water.  Your entire drytop/suit can also be treated with 303 Protectant to prevent fading and UV degredation.

• Temperature: Storage temperatures should be kept below 26C and the material stored away from heaters.
• Humidity: Moist storage conditions should be avoided.
• Direct light or artificial UV Light: Articles should be protected from prolonged exposure to
    light, in particular direct sun-light and artificial light with a high U.V. content.
• Metals: Avoid contact with copper and copper containing alloys.
• Ozone: One of the worst places to store a dry suit/top with latex seals is in the back of a car where high levels of ozone are created locally, in hot weather.

It's recommend that care should be taken to wash out the gaskets after use in cold water and towel dry.  Care should also be taken in the application of sun block oils as a number available products contain agents that can adversely attack the gaskets.  When using sun block, washing gaskets with cold water after use is very important.